Elegant and classy designs are the flavour of the festive season - Thirtha Uthappa of Samaara Jewellery

November 2, 2018

Thirtha Uthappa, founder Samaara Jewellery spent ten years working with MNCs before she decided to follow the passion of her heart. She enrolled for a jewellery design course in JD Institute of Fashion Technology and once she graduated, she began creating customised jewellery for clients in gold, diamonds, precious and semi-precious stones. She also holds workshops on jewellery, where clients can learn about the quality of diamonds, gold caratage, the difference in making charge and wastage, the purity of gold and much more. Thirtha speaks to YSWeekender on how to upgrade your festive jewellery wardrobe for the season, her new collection, her entrepreneurship journey and more…

Edited excerpts from an interview:

Thirtha Uthappa

What are the top jewellery trends today?

Internationally, I would say, the biggest trend is re-imagining a traditional look with a contemporary twist for fine diamond jewellery. The focus is on usability and beauty this year. Stackable jewellery is in vogue for rings, bangles and even necklaces.

The styles for the season are more angular with geometric designs and textured finishes. Closer home, this is the year of metal fusion where we are creating designs by combining yellow gold, rose and white gold. More and more women are opting for light weight and cost effective office wear and daily wear jewellery, instead of heavy, only-for-special-occasion-jewellery. Many craftsmen are also combining more than one technique to create a unique piece like Nakshi work with Kundan jewellery and more.

What are the best looks for the festive season this year?

Chunky necklaces are trendy this year
This festive season choose jewellery that is elegant and classy and adds to your personality. Less is definitely more this year. Purples and blues are very popular this festive season. They are deep colours best suited for the evenings and go well with the festivities that shine best in the evening. The trendiest stones are the purple amethysts, the mystical blues of tanzanites and sapphires and interesting shades of topaz such as smoky topaz.

What are the rules of choosing jewellery according to the shape of your face?

Here are some of my suggestions:

An oval shaped face: Opt for shorter necklaces over long ones, and choose studs or short earrings that fall just above the chin to create the illusion of width around the jawline.

A long face:  Short, chunky necklaces that sit high on the neck would draw attention away from the length of the face. Go for statement studs or short drop earrings to give the illusion of a wider face.

Round shape: Look for angular jewellery that contrasts with the round lines of your face, such as long earrings and necklaces with pointed or geometric pendants. Anything with length will help to create the illusion of a longer face shape.

Heart shaped face: Short, choker-style necklaces and teardrop earrings that end at, or just above, the chin will create a sense of fullness around the jawline. Bold colours would also help to create the width.

Square face: To balance a strong jaw, add length with long necklaces and earrings that draw the eye up and down.

Pear shape: Narrow drop earrings or long statement pendants go best to add width to the cheekbones and soften the jawline.

Tell us about your favourite jewellery in your latest collection.

My favourite pieces are the ones in, which we have provided the “detachable options”. My team and I have created a necklace set which can be worn in six different ways and a pendant set that can be worn in more than eight ways. I personally love these pieces as they provide such great value for money and most importantly so many ways of wearing it. My clients can wear them for various occasions without even feeling that it’s the same single piece of jewellery.
Samaara jewellery is customised to the desires of the client

What is the concept behind your jewellery?

Samaara jewellery focuses on creating bespoke customised pieces of jewellery, just the way the client imagines it. The idea is to help conceptualise the design in line with what the client has in mind and deliver a final product that is just that. Jewellery is supposed to be persona, and needs to bring out the ‘soul’ of the person when they wear it. When the making of it is so involved, the beauty and soul to the art comes out naturally.

My inspiration comes from the environment we are in and the design elements around us such as dance forms, nature and the five senses. I also want Samaara jewellery to work towards the betterment of the karigar community who make jewellery around the country. This is an art form which needs to be supported and built.

Fine jewellery enchances the beauty of an ensemble

Where did your entrepreneurship journey begin?

My tryst with jewellery started when I was a child watching my father cut and shine diamonds in Mumbai. We were in the bustling city of dreams which was unlike for a Kodava family to settle into. From a very young age I was fascinated with what my father did and someday wanted to start designing on my own. I left that dream behind and start working for MNCs. But soon, I decided I wanted to chase my passion. I started taking small orders from friends and family to begin with and this grew to people loving what I created. That also gave me courage to quit my job and take this on full time.

What was the most valuable thing you learnt in the business?

My biggest learning at the very start of my journey has been to never wait for that right moment where you feel completely ready and prepared to take off. Push yourself out there and you will figure out the ways to get around it.

What is one of the most treasured items in your personal collection?

My personal favourite is a piece of traditional jewellery, made by us, called the ‘Patak’.  This jewellery captures the essence of the Kodava tradition and can be customised, by adding diamonds and other stones.

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